Sean's Kitchen has the spirit of an eclectic New York-style brasserie. Its high vaulted ceiling, hanging jamón and impressive kitchen flames erupting from the charcoal station create plenty of atmosphere. The casual downstairs bistro space evokes railway-diner-meets-butcher-shop chic, while upstairs is a more intimate, moody affair with small tables among oak barrels. A knockout wine list includes explanatory notes ("laidback reds", "big, bold and bubbly") and serious drops (1995 Grange, by the glass, $250). Recent trends are covered (popcorn cauliflower, lobster rolls), but the kitchen flexes its muscle with simpler dishes, such as charred, chilli-flecked squid with miso-dressed watercress on Berkshire pork belly, or kingfish cutlet and romesco. Staff are friendly, though often slow to revisit your table. For a quick trip down memory lane, try the Nutella soft-serve cone with Ice Magic-style chocolate sauce, toffee banana, and hazelnut shortbread crumb.